How Does Trading Card Grading Work? A Beginner’s Guide

You pull a card you have been chasing for months. The corners look sharp. The surface seems clean. The centering looks almost perfect.

Now comes the question nearly every collector eventually asks:

Should I get this card graded?

Trading card grading is the process of having an independent company authenticate a card, evaluate its physical condition, assign it a grade, and seal it inside a protective holder.

A high grade can make a desirable card easier to sell, trade, protect, and display. However, grading does not automatically make every card more valuable. Understanding how the process works can help you decide which cards deserve a trip to the grading room and which ones are better enjoyed raw.

What Is Trading Card Grading?

Trading card grading is a professional evaluation of a card’s authenticity and physical condition.

The grading company examines the card, assigns it a numerical grade, and typically seals it inside a tamper-evident plastic holder called a slab. The label inside the slab usually identifies the card, its set, year, card number, variation, and final grade.

Most major card grading companies use a scale that runs from 1 to 10, with higher numbers representing better condition. The exact terminology and standards can differ between companies. PSA, CGC, Beckett, and SGC each publish their own grading scales and standards.

What Happens During the Card Grading Process?

Although every grading company has its own procedures, the basic trading card grading process generally includes the following steps:

1. The collector chooses a grading company.
   
   

2. The card is submitted with identifying information.
   
   

3. The grading company receives and records the card.
   
   

4. The card is examined for authenticity.
   
   

5. Its condition is evaluated.
   
   

6. A final grade is assigned.
   
   

7. The card is sealed inside a protective holder.
   
   

8. The graded card is returned to the collector.
   
   

PSA describes its process as involving authentication, condition evaluation using a 10-point scale, and sealing the card inside a tamper-evident holder. CGC similarly outlines receiving, grading, encapsulation, quality control, packaging, and return shipping as key stages of its process.

Let’s break down what is happening behind the curtain.

Step 1: Choosing a Card Grading Company

Before submitting a card, you must choose which grading company you want to use.

Some of the most recognized trading card grading companies include:

PSA

PSA grades sports cards, trading card game cards, non-sports cards, tickets, packs, autographs, and other collectibles.

PSA uses a grading scale from 1 to 10, with PSA 10 representing Gem Mint condition.

Beckett Grading Services

Beckett Grading Services, commonly called BGS, evaluates cards using the major categories of centering, corners, edges, and surface.

Beckett is also known for offering detailed subgrades on eligible services, allowing collectors to see how the card performed in each category.

Beckett uses a grading scale from 1 to 10, in 0.5 increments. They also have a Black Label, Perfect Pristine 10, which means all subgrades are 10s. 

CGC Cards

CGC grades sports cards, trading card games, and non-sports cards.

Its current grading scale runs from 1 to 10, in 0.5 increments, with Gem Mint 10 near the top and Pristine 10 reserved for cards meeting its highest standard.

SGC

SGC is widely associated with sports card grading, including modern and vintage cards.

SGC uses a numerical grading scale that includes grades from 1 through 10, in 0.5 increments, with separate Gem Mint and Pristine designations at the top.

The best grading company for your card may depend on the type of card, your budget, your preferred slab design, current turnaround times, resale trends, and your reason for grading.

Step 2: Identifying and Declaring the Card

When completing a grading submission, you will usually need to identify the card as accurately as possible.

Information may include:

• Year
  
  

• Manufacturer
  
  

• Set name
  
  

• Player or character
  
  

• Card number
  
  

• Parallel or variation
  
  

• Autograph designation
  
  

• Estimated value
  
  

The estimated or declared value is not necessarily the amount you originally paid for the card. It usually represents what the card may reasonably be worth after grading or the amount of coverage needed while it is being handled and returned.

Submission fees and service levels can vary based on the grading company, declared value, card type, and desired turnaround time. Always review the grading company’s current pricing and submission rules before mailing anything.

Step 3: Authentication

Before assigning a condition grade, the grading company must determine whether the card is authentic.

Graders may evaluate details such as:

• Printing methods
  
  

• Card stock
  
  

• Dimensions
  
  

• Fonts and design elements
  
  

• Surface characteristics
  
  

• Holograms or security features
  
  

• Known characteristics of the original release
  
  

• Signs of counterfeiting or reproduction
  
  

The company may also examine whether the card has been altered.

Potential alterations include:

• Trimming
  
  

• Recoloring
  
  

• Restoration
  
  

• Pressing
  
  

• Added gloss
  
  

• Erasure
  
  

• Surface modification
  
  

• Rebacking
  
  

• Changing or adding signatures
  
  

A card that is authentic but altered may receive a special designation instead of a numerical grade. A counterfeit card may be rejected entirely.

Professional grading provides an independent opinion, but collectors should still verify certification information when buying expensive graded cards. Many grading companies provide online certification lookup tools or population reports.

Step 4: Evaluating the Card’s Condition

Once authenticity has been assessed, graders evaluate the card’s physical condition.

The four areas collectors hear about most often are:

• Centering
  
  

• Corners
  
  

• Edges
  
  

• Surface
  
  

Beckett explicitly identifies these four categories as central to its grading system. Other grading companies consider the same general physical characteristics, although their internal processes and weighting may differ.

What Do Card Graders Look For?

Centering

Centering refers to how evenly the card’s image and borders are positioned.

A perfectly centered card generally has equal or nearly equal border spacing on opposite sides. A card with noticeably more border space on one side is considered off-center.

Graders may assess both:

• Left-to-right centering
  
  

• Top-to-bottom centering
  
  

The front and back may be evaluated separately.

Centering is one of the easiest flaws for collectors to notice, especially on cards with clearly defined borders. Borderless designs can be more difficult to judge without identifying specific design markers.

PSA publishes approximate centering tolerances for its individual grades. For example, its PSA 10 standard allows limited centering variance while also requiring exceptionally strong corners, focus, gloss, and overall presentation.

Corners

Graders examine all four corners of the card.

Potential corner flaws include:

• Whitening
  
  

• Bending
  
  

• Fraying
  
  

• Rounding
  
  

• Crushing
  
  

• Separation
  
  

• Softness
  
  

• Small dents
  
  

A card can look sharp from the front while showing whitening or damage on the back. That is why both sides need to be inspected.

Even a tiny amount of corner wear can prevent an otherwise beautiful card from receiving the highest possible grade.

Edges

The edges are the four sides of the card between its corners.

Graders may look for:

• Chipping
  
  

• Whitening
  
  

• Rough cuts
  
  

• Dents
  
  

• Peeling
  
  

• Flaking
  
  

• Factory damage
  
  

• Layer separation
  
  

Dark-bordered cards often reveal edge wear more clearly than light-bordered cards. Chrome and foil cards may also show small areas of chipping or surface separation near the edges.

Some edge issues occur during manufacturing, while others result from handling or storage. Either type of flaw may affect the grade.

Surface

The surface includes the entire front and back of the card.

Graders may inspect it for:

• Scratches
  
  

• Print lines
  
  

• Dents
  
  

• Indentations
  
  

• Stains
  
  

• Fingerprints
  
  

• Scuffs
  
  

• Creases
  
  

• Fading
  
  

• Missing ink
  
  

• Roller marks
  
  

• Wax stains
  
  

• Printing defects
  
  

• Loss of gloss
  
  

Surface flaws can be especially sneaky. A card may appear flawless under ordinary room lighting but reveal scratches or dents when tilted under a strong light.

Chrome cards, holographic cards, foil cards, and glossy trading card game cards can be particularly vulnerable to surface scratches and print lines.

Print Quality

Print quality may also influence the final grade.

Possible printing defects include:

• Poor focus
  
  

• Color registration problems
  
  

• Ink spots
  
  

• Missing ink
  
  

• Print lines
  
  

• Fish-eye marks
  
  

• Uneven gloss
  
  

• Factory roller damage
  
  

Collectors sometimes assume factory defects do not count because they were present when the card left the pack. Grading companies generally evaluate the card that exists in front of them, regardless of whether the flaw happened during production or later handling.

A pack-fresh card is not automatically a perfect card.

Step 5: Assigning the Final Grade

After examining the card, the grading company assigns a final grade based on its published standards and internal evaluation process.

A simplified grading scale may look something like this:

• 10: Gem Mint or Pristine
  
  

• 9: Mint
  
  

• 8: Near Mint to Mint
  
  

• 7: Near Mint
  
  

• 6: Excellent to Mint
  
  

• 5: Excellent
  
  

• 4: Very Good to Excellent
  
  

• 3: Very Good
  
  

• 2: Good
  
  

• 1: Poor
  
  

The exact names and requirements vary by grading company.

A grade is not simply an average of all visible characteristics. One significant flaw can limit the final grade even when the rest of the card looks excellent.

For example, a card with strong centering, clean edges, and sharp corners might still receive a lower grade because of a crease or deep surface indentation.

What Is a Gem Mint Card?

A Gem Mint card is a card in exceptional condition with extremely limited imperfections.

Depending on the grading company, a Gem Mint card will generally have:

• Strong centering
  
  

• Sharp corners
  
  

• Clean edges
  
  

• A clean surface
  
  

• Strong color and focus
  
  

• Little or no visible wear
  
  

Gem Mint does not always mean mathematically flawless. Each grading company has its own published tolerance levels and definitions.

CGC currently distinguishes between Gem Mint 10 and its higher Pristine 10 designation, while PSA’s highest standard card grade is PSA Gem Mint 10.

What Are Card-Grading Subgrades?

Subgrades are individual scores assigned to specific areas of a card.

They commonly include:

• Centering
  
  

• Corners
  
  

• Edges
  
  

• Surface
  
  

Subgrades give collectors more information about why a card received its overall grade.

For example, a card might receive:

• Centering: 9.5
  
  

• Corners: 9
  
  

• Edges: 9.5
  
  

• Surface: 8.5
  
  

• Overall grade: 9
  
  

In this example, the surface grade likely helped limit the final result.

Not every grading company offers subgrades, and service options can change. CGC states that it no longer offers card subgrades, while Beckett continues to feature subgrades as part of its grading system.

Step 6: Encapsulation

After the grade is assigned, the card is placed inside a protective plastic holder.

This process is called encapsulation.

The slab generally includes a label showing:

• The grading company
  
  

• Card identification
  
  

• Year and set
  
  

• Player or character
  
  

• Card number
  
  

• Grade
  
  

• Certification number
  
  

• Special designations, when applicable
  
  

The holder protects the card from direct handling, dust, and many forms of ordinary wear. It does not make the card indestructible.

Graded cards should still be protected from:

• Excessive heat
  
  

• Direct sunlight
  
  

• High humidity
  
  

• Water
  
  

• Smoke
  
  

• Crushing pressure
  
  

• Hard impacts
  
  

• Rapid temperature changes
  
  

A slab is armor, not a force field.

Step 7: Certification and Population Reporting

Most graded cards receive a unique certification number.

Collectors can often enter that number on the grading company’s website to verify information about the card.

Certification lookup may show:

• Card identification
  
  

• Assigned grade
  
  

• Certification status
  
  

• Images of the card
  
  

• Grading date or submission details
  
  

• Population information
  
  

A population report, often called a pop report, shows how many copies of a particular card a company has graded at each level.

For example, a population report might show:

• 1,200 total copies graded
  
  

• 300 graded 10
  
  

• 500 graded 9
  
  

• 250 graded 8
  
  

• 150 graded 7 or lower
  
  

Population reports can help collectors understand the graded supply of a card. PSA, Beckett, and SGC each provide population-related tools or reports for collectors.

However, a low population does not automatically make a card valuable. It could mean the card is difficult to grade, but it could also mean few people have considered it worth submitting.

Scarcity needs demand before it becomes value.

How Much Does It Cost to Grade a Trading Card?

The cost of grading a trading card depends on several factors:

• The grading company
  
  

• The service level
  
  

• The card’s declared value
  
  

• Turnaround speed
  
  

• Card dimensions or thickness
  
  

• Autograph authentication
  
  

• Membership requirements
  
  

• Shipping and insurance
  
  

• Optional imaging or special labels
  
  

There may also be additional costs if the card’s final value exceeds the maximum value allowed for the service level selected.

Because prices, service tiers, and turnaround estimates change, collectors should consult the company’s current submission page before choosing a service. Do not rely on an old social media post or a price mentioned in a video from several years ago.

How Long Does Card Grading Take?

Card grading turnaround times can range from relatively fast premium services to much longer economy or bulk submissions.

The total time may include:

• Shipping to the grading company
  
  

• Receiving and intake
  
  

• Research and identification
  
  

• Authentication
  
  

• Grading
  
  

• Encapsulation
  
  

• Quality control
  
  

• Return shipping
  
  

A company’s advertised turnaround time may refer only to the time the card is actively inside its grading process. It may not include shipping, delays, special research, payment issues, or high submission volumes.

Always check how the chosen company currently defines its turnaround estimate.

Does Grading Increase a Card’s Value?

Grading can increase a card’s value, but it is never guaranteed.

A card is more likely to benefit from grading when:

• It is already in strong demand
  
  

• It receives a high grade
  
  

• It is commonly bought and sold graded
  
  

• Authentication matters to buyers
  
  

• The raw card is valuable enough to justify the fee
  
  

• The graded population is important to collectors
  
  

• The card has strong eye appeal
  
  

• The slab makes it easier to sell confidently
  
  

Grading may not increase the value enough to cover the cost when:

• The card is common
  
  

• Demand is low
  
  

• The card receives a disappointing grade
  
  

• The raw card has little monetary value
  
  

• Shipping and grading fees are too high
  
  

• The card is primarily valuable for sentimental reasons
  
  

• Comparable graded sales are weak
  
  

Before submitting, compare the likely value of the card in several possible grades.

Do not calculate profitability using only the value of a perfect 10. Consider what happens if the card receives an 8 or 9.

How Do You Know if a Card Is Worth Grading?

Ask these five questions:

1. What Is the Card Worth Raw?

Look at recent completed sales for the exact card.

Make sure you match:

• Year
  
  

• Set
  
  

• Card number
  
  

• Parallel
  
  

• Variation
  
  

• Serial numbering
  
  

• Autograph or relic type
  
  

• Condition
  
  

Active asking prices are not reliable substitutes for completed sales.

2. What Does the Card Sell for in Different Grades?

Look for recent sales of the same card graded by the same company.

Compare several potential outcomes, such as:

• Grade 8
  
  

• Grade 9
  
  

• Grade 10
  
  

This gives you a more realistic range.

3. What Will Grading Cost?

Include:

• Grading fee
  
  

• Shipping
  
  

• Insurance
  
  

• Supplies
  
  

• Possible membership fees
  
  

• Return shipping
  
  

• Potential value-based charges
  
  

4. What Grade Is the Card Likely to Receive?

Inspect the card carefully under good lighting.

Look at:

• Centering
  
  

• Corners
  
  

• Edges
  
  

• Surface
  
  

• Print quality
  
  

• Front and back
  
  

• Hidden dents or creases
  
  

Be conservative. Collectors often grade their own cards more generously because they are emotionally invested in them.

5. Why Do You Want It Graded?

A card does not need to be financially valuable to deserve grading.

You might grade a card because:

• It belongs in your personal collection
  
  

• It has sentimental meaning
  
  

• You love the player or character
  
  

• You want it authenticated
  
  

• You want better protection
  
  

• You enjoy displaying slabs
  
  

• You want matching cards in the same holder
  
  

A meaningful card does not need Wall Street approval.

Should Vintage Cards Be Graded Differently?

Vintage cards are judged under published grading standards, but collectors should have realistic expectations.

Older cards may commonly show:

• Rounded corners
  
  

• Off-centering
  
  

• Surface wear
  
  

• Staining
  
  

• Wax residue
  
  

• Printing defects
  
  

• Paper loss
  
  

• Creases
  
  

• Fading
  
  

A lower numerical grade does not make a vintage card undesirable.

A rare vintage card in a grade of 2, 3, or 4 may still be highly collectible because of its age, scarcity, historical importance, and demand.

For vintage cards, authentication and preservation may be just as important as receiving a high numerical grade.

Should You Clean a Card Before Grading?

Collectors should be extremely cautious about cleaning or altering cards.

Aggressive cleaning can damage the surface or lead to an altered designation. Using chemicals, polish, erasers, moisture, heat, pressure, or trimming tools can permanently damage a card.

It is generally reasonable to remove loose surface dust gently without applying chemicals or changing the card. Beyond that, inexperienced collectors can easily turn a small flaw into a large one.

When in doubt, leave the card alone.

How Should Cards Be Packaged for Grading?

Always follow the exact shipping instructions provided by the grading company.

Many companies recommend placing cards in:

1. A clean penny sleeve
   
   

2. A semi-rigid card holder
   
   

3. Protective cardboard or submission packaging
   
   

4. A sturdy shipping box with adequate cushioning
   
   

Beckett’s submission instructions, for example, recommend oversized semi-rigid holders and allow penny sleeves to be used with them.

Avoid taping directly across the opening of the card holder unless instructed. Loose tape can stick to the card or make removal more difficult.

Before shipping:

• Photograph the front and back of every card
  
  

• Record card and certification information
  
  

• Keep copies of submission paperwork
  
  

• Use tracking
  
  

• Consider insurance
  
  

• Do not leave empty space inside the box
  
  

• Follow the company’s labeling instructions
  
  

Can Two Identical Cards Receive Different Grades?

Yes.

Two copies of the same card may have different:

• Centering
  
  

• Corner sharpness
  
  

• Edge wear
  
  

• Surface quality
  
  

• Print defects
  
  

• Handling damage
  
  

• Storage history
  
  

Even cards pulled from the same pack or box can receive different grades.

Professional grading also involves human evaluation within established standards. That means collectors may occasionally disagree with a result or receive a different grade after resubmission, review, or crossover.

A grade is a professional opinion based on a company’s standards, not a law carved into the cardboard universe.

Can You Resubmit a Graded Card?

Depending on the grading company, collectors may have several options:

Review

The original grading company evaluates whether the card deserves a higher grade while it remains in its holder or goes through a controlled review process.

Regrade

The card is submitted again for a new condition evaluation.

Crossover

A card graded by one company is submitted to another company with a requested minimum grade.

Crack and Resubmit

The collector removes the card from its existing slab and submits it as a raw card.

Cracking a slab carries risk. The card can be damaged during removal, and the new grade may be lower than the original grade.

Never assume resubmitting guarantees an upgrade.

Frequently Asked Questions About Trading Card Grading

What does it mean to grade a trading card?

Grading means having a professional third-party company authenticate a card, evaluate its condition, assign a grade, and usually seal it inside a protective holder.

What are the four main things card graders examine?

Card graders primarily examine centering, corners, edges, and surface condition. They may also evaluate printing quality, authenticity, alterations, and overall eye appeal.

What is the highest trading card grade?

Most major card grading scales top out at 10, although the name and exact requirements differ. Depending on the company, the highest grade may be called Gem Mint 10, Pristine 10, or another premium designation.

Is a PSA 10 card perfect?

A PSA 10 represents PSA’s Gem Mint standard. It requires exceptional condition, but PSA’s published standards allow certain very minor printing or centering tolerances.

Can a brand-new card receive a low grade?

Yes. New cards can have factory defects, poor centering, print lines, edge damage, surface scratches, or damaged corners before the pack is opened.

Does a graded card always sell for more than a raw card?

No. The card must receive a desirable grade, and there must be enough collector demand to justify the grading and shipping costs.

Are graded cards waterproof?

No. A slab offers significant physical protection, but it should not be treated as waterproof, fireproof, crushproof, or immune to extreme temperatures.

Which grading company is best?

There is no universal answer. The best company depends on the card, collecting category, resale market, fee, turnaround time, holder preference, and your personal goals.

Is it worth grading cards for a personal collection?

Yes, when authentication, protection, presentation, consistency, or sentimental value matters to you. Financial profit does not have to be the only reason to grade a card.

Final Thoughts: Grading Is a Tool, Not a Requirement

Trading card grading can provide authentication, condition verification, protection, and increased buyer confidence. It can also make a collection easier to display and organize.

But every card does not need to be graded.

Some cards are better kept raw. Some are meant to be played. Some belong in a binder. Others deserve the full slab-and-spotlight treatment.

Before submitting a card, research its value, inspect its condition, review the grading company’s standards, and calculate the complete cost. Most importantly, decide what role the card plays in your collection.

The grade is one part of the card’s story. It is not the entire story.

Explore raw cards, graded cards, sports cards, trading card games, sealed products, and protective card supplies at CardCore Kai. Welcome to the Kai Collective.